It's Murphy's Law - and a lack of a real live technical editor, perhaps - but I really should have caught my half saved edits on this poor shoulder, so apologies all around.
The PDF has been changed, but if any of you have an early version, you may scratch your head as you reach the shoulder decrease on the top of the back piece on your N. Red.
Making some last minute edits to the left shoulder, it seems I pressed "save" a bit too early and gave all of you TWO row 3s, and a few resulting wonky directions. They're easy to fix, and a few of you have already knit right past them without comment, so they won't give you a 3rd arm or anything, but the pattern should make sense the revs. are simple to explain here.
Again, sorry, sorry, sorry. Still getting my sea legs on these things.
The PDF has been changed, but if any of you have an early version, you may scratch your head as you reach the shoulder decrease on the top of the back piece on your N. Red.
Making some last minute edits to the left shoulder, it seems I pressed "save" a bit too early and gave all of you TWO row 3s, and a few resulting wonky directions. They're easy to fix, and a few of you have already knit right past them without comment, so they won't give you a 3rd arm or anything, but the pattern should make sense the revs. are simple to explain here.
SO,
1. There's only one Row 3. Make the second one into Row 4 and go from there with the numbers. You have 7 total rows, not 6. Evens are WS, Odds are RS.
2. This means you repeat rows 6&7, not rows 5&6.
4. On Row 5 (which is now Row 6), you purl to the last 3, not the last 4.
3. Row 6 (which is now Row 7) is a knit row.
2. This means you repeat rows 6&7, not rows 5&6.
4. On Row 5 (which is now Row 6), you purl to the last 3, not the last 4.
3. Row 6 (which is now Row 7) is a knit row.
Again, sorry, sorry, sorry. Still getting my sea legs on these things.
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